Author Archives: bryanus

DT Swiss 240s 142x12mm Rear Hub/Axle Conversion

Since I’ve decided to stick with 26er’s for a while, I decided it was worth it to switch the rear hub of my Ritchey Superlogic carbon wheelset from standard 135mm QR to the new 142x12mm thru-axle design by Syntace (aka X-12).

The cool thing about the Superlogic wheelset is that it uses de-badged DT 240s hubs, which can be converted to any axle design in use today. Unfortunately, mine is a 2009 model, so instead of just popping on new end caps, I had to swap out the whole axle in order to fit the 12mm thick thru-axle.

Interestingly, I couldn’t find any information on how to do this online. I had some ideas on how to do it, but I was surprised that there were no videos or other write-ups dealing specifically with the rear axle swap on these hubs.

Here’s how to do it:

  1. Remove the wheel, cassette and rotor (if centerlock).
  2. Firmly grasp the freehub body and pull hard. Wiggle it a bit as you pull if it doesn’t come loose. Be careful as you pull it, as there is a spring inside the freehub body that will likely fall out once the freehub body is removed. It may feel like the freehub body isn’t going to come out, but trust me, if you have a DT hub, it WILL come off! The freehub body is kept in place by the end cap which snaps into place, so that is what you are actually trying to break free.
  3. Once the freehub body is off, locate the spring and place somewhere safe. Now, remove the internal ratchet pieces from the hub, the axle spacer next to the hub bearing, and the hub spring. Take note of how these all fit back together. Basically, the smaller ends of the springs point inwards towards each other during reassembly.
  4. Now is a good time to clean off the parts you just pulled out.
  5. To get the axle out, insert a thin wooden dowel through the drive-side axle and use a hammer to tap out the end cap of the non-drive side.
  6. Now, place the wheel onto a padded surface drive-side up (I used my shop floor mat). Insert a stubby screw driver into the axle and use a hammer to tap the axle out. The stubby screwdriver protects the axle as you hit it with the hammer, rather than striking the axle directly. It will take some firm blows to free the bearing, but you will know right away once the bearing is free. Once it is free, lift up the wheel and the axle should come out with a  few more light taps.
  7. With the axle out, remove the bearing and clean as necessary.
  8. Now, slide the bearing onto your new axle and put a little grease onto the sides of the bearing and also the hub to ease in pressing the bearing back into place.
  9. At this point, your axle is loosely inserted into the non-drive side. Re-assemble the freehub side. Use a light-weight oil on the ratchet parts. Chris King Ring lube is recommended, but I don’t have any of that, so I have heard you can use something like Finish Line Cross Country wet lube or even Tri-flow. The viscosity is important; too thick and your ratchet may not engage properly. I used some Tri-flow in mine. FWIW, the lighter the viscosity will also result in your freewheel clicking more loudly. Thicker stuff will muffle the sound a bit.
  10. Once the axle/hub is put back together loosely, assemble the wheel using the dropouts for your 142 setup and insert the thru-axle. Start tightening the axle, and you will see that the non-drive side bearing is being gently pressed into the hub shell. Tighten until you can’t tighten anymore.
  11. Install the dropouts onto your frame and put your cassette/rotor back onto your wheel. Install your wheel and tighten the thru-axle firmly. I had to re-adjust my rear caliper a bit due to some slight rubbing, but after that you are done!

2012 BMC SL01 RoadRacer 54cm




Even though I don’t really ride my road bike much, I still wanted to keep it around for days I couldn’t do a full MTB ride. I came across a great deal on this new ‘12 BMC RoadRacer with 105 Group on eBay and took a risk in being able to sell my old frame to cover the costs. I swapped over all of my old parts and sold off my old Omega Ti frame and the new 105 set to squeeze out a small profit in the end. I dropped over a pound vs the Omega and got an updated frameset to boot. 15.68lbs without pedals.

2014 Intense Carbine


This is the new 2014 Intense Carbine! I discovered a molding defect on my Carbine SL when I attempted to install a dropper seatpost. The seattube had some very deep grind marks in the tube:


It’s my opinion that Intense (or whomever manufactures these for them), preps the tubes a bit and somehow created these marks. Intense says that they don’t use any sort of process as their molding technique does not require it. In any case, I contacted them and they had me send it in for a closer look. A week later, they called me and said they would cover it under the warranty. Since they didn’t have any of the Medium SLs left, they offered a clean swap for their new 2014 Carbine frameset instead. I was happy with this option, as I knew that the Carbine was only about half a pound heavier (due to non-Ti bolts and Alloy upper linkage) than the SL. But the nice thing about the Carbine frame is that it uses their “G1” dropout system, which means you can swap in 27.5/650b compatible dropouts if I want to upgrade to the latest fad wheel size. Another bonus is that the rear shock is configured for 140/152mm (5.5/6.0") travel vs 120/135mm for the SL.

Turns out the frame is only marginally heavier at 5.40lbs for the bare frame, versus 5.04lbs for the SL version.

I swapped over the parts from the SL and left the rear shock at the 140mm setting for now. I also added a Specialized Command Post BlackLite dropper post, after trying out a KS Lev Integra and non-Integra (more in another post about that).

Total build weight came to a nice and light 24.32lbs with pedals!

Sure it’s a somewhat weight-weenie build considering the nature of this trail category bike, but it’s more than tough enough for my riding and trails so I’m pretty happy with it.

Update 01/28/14:

OK, so I’ve had the Carbine for a few months now and have some updates on how it rides. Until last weekend, I had it in the 140mm rear setting. But it never felt right. The rear seemed overly harsh and I felt like I was getting pretty beat up on the trails. It wasn’t a bad ride per se, but not exactly what I was expecting from one of the “best” trail bikes available today. In fact, I would say it wasn’t even as good as my old ‘09 Fuel EX in terms of ride quality and feel, and that bike only had a 120mm rear!

So last weekend I decided to try the 152mm (6") setting in the rear and to my surprise, I had to pump into 140psi to get the rear back up to 30% sag. (previously I was running 120psi at the 140mm setting to achieve 30% sag). Hmm, that’s interesting. Why would changing the shock setting induce so much more sag? I have no idea, but I immediately felt the shock actuate much more freely and actively than before. All of a sudden, it was PLUSH! WTH??!

Anyway, I took in on my usual trails last weekend and wow, what a difference! I only used about 90% of the total travel, but the rear was super plush now and I never felt any of the harshness that I did before. I could feel the bike compressing on the hits and smoothly coming back up ready for the next one. Best of all, my body wasn’t beat up at the end of the ride. I’m going to continue to experiment with the 152mm setting and maybe switch back to compare some more.

Another update I have is that I managed to crush part of the rear rim on once of my last rides. I’m not sure how I did it exactly, but I suspect it was from hitting a rock from the side of the wheel and not from a direct impact from bottoming out on one.

The damage wasn’t too bad. The affected area is about 4-5mm deep:


I ended up taking the tire off, cleaning and sanding the area a bit and applying some Gorilla epoxy to patch it up a bit. The wheel is still totally true and round and holds tubeless just fine as well. I’ve since ridden it 3 times with no issues, but you never know…

I contacted Calfee about a fix and they said there wasn’t enough material to do it properly. Ricthey has all but sold out of these wheels/rims, plus they’ve been discontinued for a while anyway. They did have a “WCS” version of the carbon rim available (apparently just a different finish than the Superlogic), but at $400, I passed on it. I didn’t want to have a mismatched set either.

So this all got me thinking about upgrading to 27.5 wheels. Unfortunately, I have expensive tastes, but I don’t like to spend a lot of money. A new 27.5 carbon wheelset plus a compatible fork (RS Pike) would probably set me back at least a couple G’s or more. Ouch.

Lo and behold, ebay came to the rescue! A seller in Greece had a pair of new Superlogic rims for sale! I sniped in a bid and got them for just under $400 shipped and they should be here in a few weeks.

Well, now that I’ve sorted my rim issue, I’ve also sort of dedicated my wheel size to 26 for the time being. I’m happy with that. Everything I’ve read about the 26 vs 27.5 size is that there’s not that much of a difference in terms of real world feel. I think if you are buying a new bike, sure 27.5 makes sense. But if you are like me, and have a big investment in 26", it may not make much sense to spend that much money on a 27.5 upgrade when the performance difference may be negligible.

To that end, I’m now in the process of collecting the necessary parts to convert my Carbine rear to 142×12 and changing the axle of the rear Superlogic (a rebadged DT 240s) to 142 as well. That should stiffen things up a bit back there.

2013 Intense Carbine SL – 17.5″

OK, I think I have a sickness. I’m addicted to bikes! The Carbine SL was always at the top of my list, but the price was just outrageous. $2800 for the frame alone. That’s just crazy talk! But when I heard that Intense was closing them out at $1599, well, I had to consider it.

Even though I just bought the Felt Virtue LTD in May, and was relatively happy with, I knew deep down that I had to have this frame. Fast-forward a few weeks later and here it is.


It’s a pretty sweet frame indeed. The matte carbon finish looks really stealth and the red accents are a nice touch. I added in the bling red Chris King Inset headset to top it off. The cockpit carried over from the Virtue, but along the way I upgraded to these superlight, but supertough Ritchey Superlogic carbon hoops with DT240s hubs. I also managed to find the Dual Position version of the Revelation World Cup fork, in Keronite grey no less. The “2P-Air” allows on-the-fly travel adjustment from 120/150mm; great for dropping the front end on climbs.

The best part? I dropped over a pound vs. the Virtue with the same build. Total build weight is just under 23lbs! With pedals! 22.96 to be exact. Woot!


This is my first experience riding the VPP suspension design. Honestly, it looks a lot like DW-Link and even Felt’s Equilink to me. But right away I noticed the rear was much more plush, similar to how Trek’s ABP felt to me. With Felt’s Equilink, I left the platform full open all the time and never fiddled with changing it for climbs. With VPP I’m back to flipping the platform to “Trail” or “Climb” settings. Not a huge issue, but I can tell that the design isn’t as well-suited to climbs when compared to Felt’s Equilink.

Overall, though, the plushness makes for a better ride than the Virtue. I feel like the trail seems smoother and quieter. The Carbine seems to just float over the bumps. With the Virtue, the rear was so stiff that it felt like the platform was always set to firm. And by stiff I mean that it didn’t feel very active, especially on the smaller hits.


Anyway, only 2 rides on this bad boy so far and I’m digging it. But one other bike is also on the radar: The SL’s bigger brother, the Carbine (non-SL).

The standard Carbine has a different rear triangle than the SL, and it features the ability to swap the rear dropouts to accommodate the latest craze: 27.5" wheels!

It also adds about half a pound frame weight, but when the bike is only 23lbs to begin with, what’s half a pound? I must say my eyes are open for one of those to come up at the right price…


How to find out the Best Offer accepted price in an eBay auction

Ever wondered what price a seller accepted a Best Offer at on eBay?

Well, if you use a desktop browser to view past auctions, eBay won’t show it to you. eBay simply lists the original selling price with a slash through it and a message “Best Offer Accepted”.

But I stumbled on a way to see the prices. All you need is your smartphone and the eBay app.

Just do a search for your item in the app, then Refine the search to view Sold Items only, which will then show you the past auctions.

Voila!, the Best Offer prices that were accepted are now shown and you can make or adjust your offer using that information.

Hopefully this doesn’t become common knowledge so eBay can fix this “bug”…so keep it to yourselves!

2000 Dekerf Team SL

I had one of these on my eBay watch list for years now and I don’t think I’ve seen more than one come up if that. This one was in my size and the price was right: only $600 for a complete bike.

The bike was very well used indeed and it shows. The frame’s paint is chipped and flaked off in many places. The bike included a nice Chris King classic wheelset (but hurting for a cleaning/rebuild!), a much-too-long 120mm Marzocchi Bomber ETA Pro fork, Chris King headset, and XT/XTR 8spd drivetrain. Do the math and this BuyItNow was a no brainer.





Anyway, I sold off the parts I didn’t want or need and actually made a small profit, ending up with the frame and a few other parts for free. Heh. I then swapped parts over from my (now sold) Bonty and here’s what we have now:




Being a 2000 yr frame, the geometry is capable of taking a 100mm fork. The fork is from the Xizang build and I took the spacer out to bring it back out to 100mm travel. I’m considering sending it back to Dekerf for a repaint and to also have disc tabs/routing added to the frame. The barrier is the cost: with cross-border fees and duties on top of the labor, it may be upwards of $600 or more! Is it worth it? Dekerf’s Team SST frameset goes for $2100, and that’s basically the same frame in every way. So for $600 or so I could have essentially a brand-spankin’ new Dekerf frame with new paint and decals and the modern luxuries of disc brakes.

Hmm, I think I’ve already made my decision… 😉

2012 Felt Virtue LTD

A new bike…

The flavor of the month is this sweet Felt Virtue LTD, Medium 17.5" with full XTR Trail package.






Currently, I’m trying to downsize my bike collection a bit and having sold off the Trek and the Xizang frame, this popped up and it looked like a good buy. I’d been eyeing these bikes for a few years, ever since they redesigned their frames back in ‘09 I believe.

Anyway, the “LTD” (Limited) is their top offering, with an MSRP of, get this, $9999 (Are you out of your mind??!!). Of course I didn’t pay that much; let’s just say that the sale of the Trek and the Xizang more than covered this one.

The thing that sealed the deal for me was the fact that it was brand new, never ridden, plus it had a full XTR trail spec including wheels. I figured it was worth more in parts alone considering the price I paid.

I took it on its first ride last weekend, after a near 3-month hiatus from riding thanks to devbootcamp and various injuries. That ride was relatively painful and I was only able to hobble along for half the loop. Sucks. But it was still great to get out and I’m looking forward to getting back into a routine again.

The bike performed well. I wish I was in better shape to be able to have a better comparison against the Fuel’s ABP design, but one thing I noticed was that the LTD was much quieter on the rough stuff and the rear felt nearly locked out on the climbs. Felt likes to hype their equilink suspension, but I could care less as long as it works.

Flying Lessons

First of all, man, it’s only been 3 days??!!

Shereef took some time today to talk to us about “empathy”:  the interpersonal skill of interaction between human beings and how important  it is to refine that skill as a developer. Oftentimes projects fail not because of budgets or time constraints, but because the team couldn’t get their act together to pull it off. From experience, I know this is definitely true.

Another part of the empathy concept is to learn to give and receive feedback constructively. Without feedback, we can’t learn. But in today’s world, everyone is so PC, people are afraid to give feedback or worse, don’t know how to handle it and act on it.

A fun part of the presentation was a demonstration of giving and receiving feedback. Our group (“the banana slugs”) were given the task of molding a plane out of Play-Doh, and the rest of the group was to give us feedback ranging from “kind and encouraging” to “highly critical and negative”. I’m happy to say that most of my feedback was positive! 😉

Here’s mine:


Unlock iPhone 3GS running iOS 6.1 and Downgrade Baseband 6.15.00

OK, the 3GS is a bit dated, but I recently inherited this device from my brother, who I [unsuccessfully] tried to convert to Android with a shiny new Nexus 4. He had been complaining that his 3GS was very slow and wanted the ability to tether to his laptop. He’s on my business plan with T-Mobile, and had been suffering with EDGE-only speeds thus far.

I told him that the best phone available for T-Mobile right now was the Nexus 4, and I went to some great lengths to get him (and myself!) one on launch day. When I got them I promptly rooted them, flashed a custom ROM, and sent it off to him.

After about a month using the Nexus, he aborted and hit the Apple store and bought an unlocked iPhone 5. He’s happy again, and since the iPhone 5 supports DC-HSPA (aka HSPA+ 42), he’s getting the best speeds currently possible on the T-Mobile network.

Anyway, he’s now sent me back the Nexus 4 and his old 3GS to sell off for him. Unfortunately, he unthinkingly tapped the update button on his 3GS and updated to iOS 6.1 and baseband 06.15.00, re-locking his iPhone in the process (he was previously unlocked with the now closed SAM method).

If anyone has ever tinkered with iPhone unlocking and jailbreaking, you know how much of a pain this sort of thing is to deal with. There’s a lot of crap information out there and it’s hard to sort through it all. Well, I’m happy to say that I’ve done the hard work for you and was able to get his 3GS unlocked and activated again. Here’s how:

Initial configuration:

  • iPhone 3GS (old bootrom)
  • iOS 6.1
  • locked to ATT
  • unactivated
  • firmware 06.15.00

Final configuration:

  • iOS 6.1
  • Unlocked to any GSM carrier
  • Activated
  • firmware 5.16.04 (5.13.04)

Step 1: Buy the IMEI Unlock service for $2

First, go to eBay and buy the IMEI unlock for the iPhone. It costs about $2 as of the time of this post. The seller is unlock_fusion. I would link to the actual auction, but it will undoubtedly expire at some point and then the link will be broken anyway. Just use the link above to go to his Store and find it.

Once you buy the service, you will get an email with a link to input your phones IMEI number. Once submitted, it takes anywhere from 2 -12 hours to get the confirmation that your phone has been unlocked.

Step 2: Download the tools and firmware

Download the latest version of Redsn0w:

Download iOS 6.0 firmware for the 3GS:,1_6.0_10A403_Restore.ipsw

Step 3: Downgrade the baseband from 6.15.00 to 5.13.04:

Watch this YouTube video to see how it’s done:

Note: The trick is to use the 6.0 firmware and not the 5.1.1 firmware that most of the tutorials mention (including this video). Using the 5.1.1 firmware will result in an error every time.

Step 4: Unlock and Activate that bastard

Now that your baseband has been downgraded to 5.13.04, the IMEI Unlock will now work (it’s not compatible with the 06.15.00 baseband).

The instructions provided by unlock_fusion had worked fine for my wife’s iPhone 4 several months ago, but I just wasn’t getting the confirmation message in iTunes that the iPhone had been unlocked with the 3GS for some reason. I tried it multiple times and never got it, nor was my T-Mobile SIM recognized.

But on unlock_fusion’s retail website, there are a few other methods to get the unlock confirmation. I’m not sure why they don’t include them all in their eBay instructions, but here’s the method that worked for me. You have to do a FULL restore, meaning restore from iTunes and install the latest iOS, not a restore of your iPhone backup.

This means it will wipe your whole phone. Everything. And when you’re done you will have to reinstall everything again. No big deal to me, since I’m starting from scratch to begin with.

The Restore Method

  1. Eject the SIM tray so it’s not readable by the iPhone
  2. Make sure your iTunes is updated to the latest version
  3. Plug your iPhone into your computer and wait until your iPhone is fully recognized in iTunes.
  4. Click the “Restore” button (not "Restore from backup") and accept the Terms agreement.
  5. Once the restore process has started, insert your non-ATT SIM card into the iPhone.
  6. Wait for the restore process to complete and iPhone to reboot.
  7. Once your iPhone has rebooted, iTunes will Activate your iPhone with your unlock ticket using your non-ATT SIM Card.
  8. You should see a message displayed in iTunes, “Congratulations, your iPhone has been unlocked!” 
  9. Your iPhone is now factory unlocked permanently and you can update freely in the future for newer iOS updates.

Yay! Got the confirmation in iTunes finally! And my T-Mobile SIM works perfectly.

You’ll notice that the baseband was updated to the latest 05.16.04 for the 3GS. Who cares, it’s unlocked now!